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Al Drago/The New York Times
WASHINGTON — It took 12 years for the nation’s pre-eminent Native American restaurant to hire its first Native American executive chef. Yet the chef, Freddie Bitsoie, is feeling a more particular pressure.
“I stress a lot about my salmon,” he said with a grin. “I think about it even when I’m at home. I think about my work about 23 hours a day, even while I’m sleeping.”
Mr. Bitsoie’s newest kitchen is the Mitsitam Native Foods Cafe at the
